August 14, 2012

Patrones #306, Dress #23

I just made a dress #23 from Patrones #306.
it was nice that from tracing the pattern to finishing the hem, I got it done in one day.
It's been awhile since I finished something so fast...

Here's the original dress.
The detail shows alot better in solid.
I also love the color of this dress.
It's more orange in this picture, but it's more like a salmon pink, or red grapefruit.
I just ordered a solid rayon challis in this color. I was going to make another Rachel Comey top with it, but maybe I'll make this dress?

Patrones is in Spanish.
It was a simple dress, but I had to use the translater here and there to make sure I was doing it right.
In case anyone wants to make it, here's the rough instruction. (Well, the way I made it, not an exact translation.)

1. Press the front pleats as directed on the pattern. Baste.
2. Attach the pockets. Sew the pocket pieces to middle front (1) right sides together. Turn the pockets over and press.
3. Sew front middle piece (1) and side front (2) together. The bottom of side front (2) is sewn to the pocket pieces right sides facing each other.

Since I made it in jersey, I cut the inside front piece (3) and back piece (4) below the bust to make them a facing instead of a layer. I'll call them 3 and 4a.
I follow the instruction of Vogue 1236 for similar dress construction.
I wonder if it would be the same if it was a layer?

4. Sew front (1,2) and back side seams.
5. Sew inside front (3) and back facing (4a) side seams.
6. With right sides together, sew front and back (1,2) piece to facing (3,4a) at the neck, back and armhole, leaving about 1in oprn at the top of shoulders.
7. Turn the facing over, press. I actually topstitched the neck and back very close to the edge. Since I used a different fabric for facing, I didn't want it to show.
8. Open out facing at shoulders. Sew front and back together.
9. Turn facing down, turning remainder of armhole edges along seamlines. Press. Understitch, or in my case I topstitched the edge.
10. Hem.

Once again I made this with 1/2yd jersey fabric from
I didn't have enough for the facings, so I use some knit scrap to make the facing.
But I think because this knit didn't stretch as much as the jersey, the bust area came out a little snug.
I graded the pattern doen to 38 according to my measurement (I'm actually 40 at the waist, but because it's a loose dress 38 overall was fine).
If I was to make this in woven, maybe I'll make size 40 at least around the top.

Overall I love this dress. Very casual and easy to wear, but has a little detail of the front pockets.
I might make it in solid woven next time so the pocket detail shows.

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