June 10, 2012

Stripe floral maxi dress

Awhile ago I got some destash fabrics from a lady from www.sewing.patternreview.com.
One of them was white floral stripe. I wanted to make a dress but didn't know what kind... I looked online for inspiration and found this.

I love how the stripes are criss crossed at the bodice.
When I saw the fabric I could only think of using the vertical stripe but I like it horizontal.
I'm thinking about using Butterick B5319.
Just lengthen the hem, and maybe reduce the volume of the skirt.
I have a love and hate relationship with this pattern...
I really love it, but I tackled it when I was a just-starting-to-sew beginner (I didn't even know to press!) and the ones I made all came out wonky.
Now I know a little more, I'm hoping it'll come out a little better.


I started a muslin of 5319.
I looked at my past review of this pattern (how embarrasing!) and noticed that I made size 12 at the time using my measurement.
Now I know that I'm probably 10 in Big 4, I made it in size 10 and it fit me pretty good right off the bat.

One thing to note...
I noticed that this happened in the past as well...
When I match the front pieces at the centerline, the front piece length doesn't match the midriff length.
In the past, I thought it was somehow my mistake, and just cut off the extra length of the midriff piece.
But because the front bodice was too tight this way, I readjusted the matching point.
It turned out that the notches at the bottom of front pieces and the top of the midriff match, and the length matched as well, although it shifted the centerline about 1 inch.
But since it fits, I'll keep it this way, and I have to remember this.
I don't know if it's Butterick's error?
I didn't see anyone mention it in the reviews of this pattern.

Another thing is, the neckline is a little too low for my taste.
I want to raise about 1/2in, but I'm afraid it would just gape open, instead of raising the neckline.
I posted a question on patternreview discussion site.
I hope someone can help me...
Or else I'll just have to wear a cami, but since this dress is already lined, I want to avoid wearing another layer.


So I raised the neckline by 1/2in and shifted the shoulders inward by about 1/2in.
I was advised I might need SBA for the neckline to gape, but SBA seems too complicated and I'm scared of it, so I decided to just see what happens without.
The original shoulders were almost falling off, so I shifted inward ajd it fit much better.

I cut the fabrics according the revised pattern and started sewing...
And bumped into few obstacles that actually happened in the past.

First, because the outside fabric is much lighter than the inner lining, the outer fabric seemed to stretch and shift.
I noticed it when I was pinning it together, the outer fabric was sticking out almost by one inch.
I remembered it happened last time, and that I just cut the extra off and kept going.
But this time, I knew that I cut the fabrics correctly, so I repinned it, by pinning the edges of two pieces together first, and eased the outer fabric to inner lining.

Then when it was ready to turn over, I clipped all the curves... Which is not mentioned in the instruction and I was too much of a beginner to know last time I made it.

So far I just finished the bodice and in the middle of attaching it to the midriff.
I feel like I'm doing it correctly and it seems promising! I'm excited for the result.

Oh, by the way... I DID make a mistake.
I wanted to make this into a maxi, but I accidentally cut the lining piece according to the pattern and ended up with knee length.
I might try to attach a strip of outer fabric undrrneath and see if I can turn it into a tier, but depending on hot it looks, I might have to keep it knee length. Darn. :(
Because I have two kids, I hardly wear knee length nowdays. Too much bending up and down!
I like the maxi length so I don't have to worry about my underwear showing.


Ok, I'm almost done with this dress.
Unfortunately i didn't make it a maxi length as I wanted.
The contrast of the lining sees through the fabric, and it just looks odd.
I just need to make it a below-knee length. (is it called a tea length?)
Plus with this print, if it was long it makes it look a little like a toga, so I think it's better off short.

Overall I do love this dress style.
Just as suggested, I do need an SBA!!! (small bust adjustment)
With normal garments I never do an SBA.
But I guess when it comes to wrap style top, it just gapes open because there's so much fabric around the bust, I should fix it.

SBA seems complicated... Especially on a wrapped top?
But I guess it's time to learn...

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